Press On!

Before I can complete my second muslin fitting, I need to make my grommet panels for this and future fittings.  Ideally, there will be several panels, so if one set is in use, there will be back-ups available.  I finally got to use the new hand press.  My verdict is that the press sets the grommets much more evenly than the results I was getting with the hammer method. The edge of the grommet is less likely to split, mush and get beat up.  This method is faster and creates a smooth, rolled grommet edge.  Less headache all 'round.

Here is the first panel, in the works:

Osborne Hand Press

First Toile

From the front, it’s easy to see that I will need to make a full bust adjustment to the armscye keeping the space for the girls, but not increasing the armscye at all.  Not really sure what's going to flatten out all that.

From the back, it won’t even close, so back to the drawing board on that.  I’ll need at least 5 extra inches through the back of the shoulders for it to begin to look like something.

It’s sitting too high in front, as well.  Pulling it down makes it feel as though it will fall off, as there is not enough fabric in back.  I absolutely have to wear a full-support bra, even with a corset.  The only corset I’d attempt to not wear a bra with would be a well-fitted 1860’s.  When I tried this on without the bra, it was a disaster that I don’t wish to share in a photo.

Well, That Was As Much Fun As...

...trying on bathing suits under fluorescent lights, or perhaps sticking a finger in my eye.  The graceful lines of this 1776 pair of stays are, shall we say, elongated and widened considerably.  I have nothing more to say here except I'm annoyed and had to go do something else for a while.

The bottom line: my waist is short (8") and I had to hook my lower center back length full around to the side over my ample hips in a really stupid sweeping arc, which I rather don't like very much at all.

Then, I had to get the bust to equal at least 22" inches (up from what a negative 0?) and then pull the front where the strap is supposed to attach up from where it was (sitting in the middle of my bust line - uh, no) to sitting up at least 4' - 5" higher at my shoulder and re-draw the armscye and hope for the best.

  Essentially, I had to grade this ancient pattern up from about a size 6 or 8 to a size 18 and now I'd really like a glass of champagne as I toss the whole mess from the balcony, but I won't because now I'm headed off to make the toile...
Post Script: Could she have trued that line a little better?  No, she couldn't as she's lost her drafting ruler and the Fiestaware didn't prove quite large enough.  :-(

The Obvious Culprits

I hate starting a project with no way to finish it.  So, I tore through the studio last to hunt for this relic from the 1980's, a deep purple, reptile-print leather mini skirt.   (Doesn't everyone have one?)

This skirt was actually a Salvation Army find a few years ago, in brand new condition and has been in my stash ever since, since not every project calls for deep purple reptile-embossed leather.  It's ready to have a new life as a binding.  The question remains: will it suddenly become tasteful in small quantities, or will it completely overwhelm the soft, ivory, brocade draperies?

Most extant examples of period stays from the last quarter of the 18th c. had tabs that were covered in white kid leather of some sort.  I've never been a white leather sort of girl, but I do have this fencing glove ready to re-purpose.

Since there isn't quite enough leather here to cover all of the tabs, I'm also using the random leather strip.  I had a boyfriend once who told me to never waste any good, usable piece of leather, and I haven't!

The lining will be a remnant of linen.

It looks as though there is just enough for two layers, one to support my old drapes, one to act as the inner layer. I've read several times about there being a removable inner linen lining in period stays, but I've not yet seen one and have no idea how that would attach except for catch stitches all the way around.  Since there is already quite enough work to do, here, I think I'll leave a whole other linen lining for another time.

My Draperies - A Scarlet O'Hara Moment

This will mark the fourth started (and, as yet, unfinished) project within this month.  This particular project is off-era, being a pair of 18th century stays (we'll just have to pretend that I'm on my way to participate in Sheridan for the season).

This is the first project for February. (Yes, there is one more unfinished project for January left to start in order to keep up.  Whew!  This is rather exhausting!)

Here are my beloved (over-lov-ed) draperies:

From afar, not too bad.  But I've had them for too many years (I'm embarrassed to say how many) as you can see.

I can't even really blame this on the cats.  It's time.  (Also time for a paint job in here!)  Will the fabric hold up to stays? Is it sun-rotted? Who knows? I'll just have to find out.  Giving it a tug didn't destroy anything.

Perhaps here you can see why I love them so:

So down they come, and into the wash they go.